Tips For Choosing The Right Fabric

So you want to make your own costume, and you’re ready to start! You’ve chosen your character, you’ve found a pattern, and now it’s time to buy the fabric. You walk into your local fabric store, and suddenly:

THERE’S FABRIC EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK. Which material do you buy for your costume? Where do you even start?

First, it helps to narrow down what general section of the store to start looking in, so I would suggest learning about some of the different types of fabric and what they are used for. MangoSirene has a helpful video about this, including some tips on choosing materials for specific costumes. Watch that and then come back; I’ll wait!

…

OK! Now that you have a basic idea of what type of material you might need, you can start considering specific fabrics. Here are some general things to consider when comparing fabrics:

  • Action. How does the fabric move? Does it stretch? Is it sturdy or flimsy? Will it hold a crease? Think about the purpose of the garment and how it should hang on your body. A crisp uniform might require a stiffer fabric, while a flowing cape might call for a fabric with a softer hand and more drape.
  • Durability. Is the fabric going to hold up to repeated wearing or washing? Will there be a lot of strain on it? (If you get a test swatch, you can stress-test the fabric by pulling, twisting, or attempting to snag threads to see how it holds up.) This is especially important for laminated fabrics like printed Spandex or pleather, which can break down or peel apart with repeated stretching.
  • Appearance. Color is only one element; also consider surface texture and how the fabric photographs, especially with flash. For example, super shiny fabrics (such as Baroque or costume satins) often create hot spots or wash out in photographs, so they are rarely a good choice. Instead, you could substitute a matte or bridal satin, which still looks rich but has less surface gloss.
  • Care. Is the fabric machine washable or dry-clean-only? Can you iron it? Some materials are highly sensitive to moisture and can break down or shrink when they get wet. Others are not dye-fast when wet, so they might bleed if you wash them. When in doubt, ask for a swatch and do some testing before you buy. (And whenever possible, make your costumes washable!)

Fabrics To Shortlist (Commonly Used In Costuming):

  • Cotton sateen. This is a good general-use fabric. It’s not too expensive, is easy to sew, holds a crease well, and comes in a variety of colors. Cotton is easy to dye and breathes well. Like almost all cotton weaves, it does wrinkle easily, so plan to iron your costume before wearing. (Also, I recommend washing on delicate, as the smooth surface can develop a bit of fuzz over time.)
  • Crepe. This textured weave comes in many different fibers and weights, and may be labeled for formalwear or suiting. It drapes nicely and is ideal for garments that must have an elegant flow, such as long dresses or capes.
  • Bridal satin. Heavier than its shiny costume counterpart, bridal satin typically has a smooth matte finish, and is a rich-looking fabric suitable for ballgowns or other elegant costumes.
  • Taffeta. A slightly textured, glossy weave that tends to be a bit stiffer than satin. Used for formalwear and costume elements that need to hold a bit more shape (i.e., ruffles or flounces). Note: Taffeta makes a distinctive rustling noise when rubbed together. If this will annoy you, you may want to avoid constructing your costume from this material.
  • Twill. This dense weave has a visible diagonal pattern, and comes in a variety of weights (most often found in the bottomweight section). Twills are often used for suits, jackets, and uniforms. Denim and gabardine are common types of twill.

Fabrics To Avoid (For Garment Construction):

  • Muslin, broadcloth, calico, quilting fabrics. These cheap, often colorful fabrics are inexpensive, but they aren’t meant to be used for constructing outer garments. They are thin, prone to wrinkle, and tear easily under pressure. They can be used for some inner layers, such as shirts or period undergarments, or for flatlining more delicate fabrics. They are also a good choice for making a mock-up to check your pattern size (which is always a good idea!).
  • High-gloss fabrics. As mentioned above, shiny fabrics tend to highlight wrinkles and bulges, don’t photograph well, and can be unflattering. Unless your costume source specifically calls for a mirror shine, use a matte-finish fabric.
  • Lining fabric. This fabric is intended to be used only for lining, not making an entire garment. It’s flimsy, staticky, shiny, and shreds easily. Do not make clothing out of it. It will fall apart.
  • “Costume” anything. Most fabrics labeled for costume use are cheap, low-quality products designed for a one-time use on Halloween or for inexpensive children’s dress-up projects. They are not designed to be washed and worn repeatedly, and may break down over time.

Fabrics To Approach With Caution:

These fabrics can be challenging for beginners, so if using them, it might be best to practice on small pieces before beginning your costume project, or ask someone with sewing experience for help:

  • Stretch knit. The stretchier the fabric, the more difficult it is to cut and pin accurately. Stretch fabrics are also challenging to sew, as they can stretch under the needle and create puckers. While sewing, it is important to maintain consistent pressure on the fabric so it is evenly stretched throughout the entire seam.
  • Brocade. This fabric features elaborate patterns, often with metallic threads woven throughout. Because of the decorative patterns, not all threads are consistently contained by the weave, so raw edges must be finished carefully to avoid fraying.
  • “Slippery” fabrics (silkies, charmeuse, etc.). The less friction a fabric generates against itself, the greater the likelihood that it will slide out of place while cutting, pinning, or stitching. Match edges carefully and pin fabric down to a flat surface before laying out patterns or cutting.
  • “Baby silk”/polyester peachskin. “Baby silk” is sold at JoAnn Fabrics, and is one of the most obnoxious materials I have ever worked with. It generates massive amounts of static electricity, snags and runs on everything, and must be serged or the edges dissolve (even when hems are rolled).
  • Faux fur. This material can be extremely thick and bulky. It is difficult to pin accurately, and on many machines, can be challenging to maintain a consistent seam allowance once layers of material are bunched up beneath the presser foot. (Also, faux fur sheds EVERYWHERE. Have a lint roller and a vacuum cleaner on hand.)

Save Money!

Obviously your costume budget is important, but don’t let the price stickers intimidate you when fabric shopping! Save money with these tips:

  • Every major fabric store chain puts out weekly coupons, so you can almost always get 40% to 60% off the listed price of a fabric. Sign up for coupons via mail, email, text, or smartphone app so you always have enough coupons to discount all your items.
  • Find out when stores run their big sales (always around major holidays, and often on a two-week cycle; ask a store employee for details). Transaction coupons often stack with sale prices, so plan ahead and find the most advantageous time to purchase your most expensive fabrics.
  • When shopping at a fabric importer or high-end specialty store, ask about quantity discounts (if you can, shop with friends so you can leverage your collective buying power and get a better deal). Many fabric warehouses will also have a discounted clearance section; ask what’s on sale!

Hopefully these tips will help you narrow your search. Good luck in your quest for the ideal costume fabric!